Surfing
Surfing like many action sports is addictive, once you get
the feeling of being in the ocean and it is you and nature playing together.
You are hooked, though you are tired of paddling after a nice ride you tend to
paddle back out, there’s just something in the waves which pulls you. Excitement,
fear, relaxation, meditation, being one with nature, pure fun is all part of
the addiction to surfing. Surfing is a lifestyle of being one with nature and
the ocean. It's difficult to explain here how surfing makes you feel, a surf
term that is used all the time is 'stoke' when you are hooked, you dream, and
in waking hours, daydream about the stoke of surfing. Really though the secret
to learning to surf is to never hesitate, once you are in the water, don't
think too much and go for it.
Where to learn to surf
The right waves for learning to surf
In general, a surf boarding beginner wants to find a break with waves that look crumbly and slow. Try to find small waves and a sandy beach; you'll be walking around a lot. Don't paddle into a crowded break; you'll likely be a hazard.
Don't surf alone either; there will be nobody to help if you're in trouble. Surf where there are people present but not right on top of them where you'll be in the way.
Ask around for good beginner surf breaks when you're shopping around for your surfing equipment. Most shop proprietors will be happy to assist, especially if you're making a purchase.
You could also look for surf schools giving surfing lessons. Where they are teaching others is probably a place that has good beginner waves this would usually cost around P200 per hour or get your first lesson with a surf school and they will teach you what are good waves for learning and many other important tips that will take you a long time to learn by trial and error.
The Park in Real, Quezon is only a two hour drive from Manila taking the Antipolo road to Laguna. They have small shore break waves that are perfect for beginners who are trying to learn the sport. The waters in Real also provide shallow waters which is a good thing to avoid drowning for those who don’t know how to swim.
Websites like Global surfers also have plenty of information for surfing destinations all over the world. You could also check out some of the beach cams in your area to see if the waves are suitable for surfing beginners.
In general, a surf boarding beginner wants to find a break with waves that look crumbly and slow. Try to find small waves and a sandy beach; you'll be walking around a lot. Don't paddle into a crowded break; you'll likely be a hazard.
Don't surf alone either; there will be nobody to help if you're in trouble. Surf where there are people present but not right on top of them where you'll be in the way.
Ask around for good beginner surf breaks when you're shopping around for your surfing equipment. Most shop proprietors will be happy to assist, especially if you're making a purchase.
You could also look for surf schools giving surfing lessons. Where they are teaching others is probably a place that has good beginner waves this would usually cost around P200 per hour or get your first lesson with a surf school and they will teach you what are good waves for learning and many other important tips that will take you a long time to learn by trial and error.
The Park in Real, Quezon is only a two hour drive from Manila taking the Antipolo road to Laguna. They have small shore break waves that are perfect for beginners who are trying to learn the sport. The waters in Real also provide shallow waters which is a good thing to avoid drowning for those who don’t know how to swim.
Websites like Global surfers also have plenty of information for surfing destinations all over the world. You could also check out some of the beach cams in your area to see if the waves are suitable for surfing beginners.
Surfing warmup
You pull up to your local break and it's firing. Winds are light, and the crowds aren't on it. So you add a little wax to your board, race across the beach, and drop your board on the sand. You reach to touch your toes (man, those hamstrings are tight), do a few arm circles, and hit the water. Sound familiar?
As a coach and trainer, I always watch what surfers do before they paddle out. And I've seen it all - from yoga to jumping jacks. Why do most surfers short change their warm up? I think it has to do with the excitement of seeing those perfects waves. Surfers have a sense of urgency screaming "get out there!" And even when the waves aren't perfect, we squeeze in a surf between work, family time, or just before the sun sets. Time is tight, but you need to do something to help you transition from land to water. So what constitutes a good pre-surf warm up?
As a coach and trainer, I always watch what surfers do before they paddle out. And I've seen it all - from yoga to jumping jacks. Why do most surfers short change their warm up? I think it has to do with the excitement of seeing those perfects waves. Surfers have a sense of urgency screaming "get out there!" And even when the waves aren't perfect, we squeeze in a surf between work, family time, or just before the sun sets. Time is tight, but you need to do something to help you transition from land to water. So what constitutes a good pre-surf warm up?
Single-Leg Balance Reach
Stand over one foot placed flat on the ground; reach high over head and slightly squat. Reach to the side of the planted foot and then re-center yourself. This will tune up your balance and increase your stability once you pop to your feet. 5 x each direction.
Reverse Lunge Twist
Take a big step backwards with one leg and rotate arms across your lead leg. Pause, and then repeat to the other side. You will feel a stretch on the front of your hip, torso, and shoulders - it's a great full body warm up. 5 x each side.
Side-to-Side Lunge
Facing the ocean, take a large step sideways. Shift your weight to each side as you stretch the opposite leg. This exercise will warm up your hips and legs. 5 x each side.
Paddling and laying on your surfboard
Paddling a surfboard is one of the most essential skills for surfing. It is what you will be doing most of the time in the water. It is what gives you your fitness and what makes you tired. Paddling correctly will help you catch waves and progress in surfing better, quicker.
Goofy or Natural?
Before you get on your surfboard, or put on your surf leash you need to know whether you are Goofy or Natural foot. This means which foot you put at the front of your surfboard.
Simply put
Goofy footed - right foot at the front
Natural footed - left foot at the front
How to test your footing?
The push test -- have someone push you (gently) from behind. Which foot goes forward. That is your front foot.
Really the test above are for people who really can't work out which foot to put forward. Most people when practicing to stand up on a surfboard, just do it. I will say once again, if you think too much you will fall, just do it!
Simply put
Goofy footed - right foot at the front
Natural footed - left foot at the front
How to test your footing?
The push test -- have someone push you (gently) from behind. Which foot goes forward. That is your front foot.
Really the test above are for people who really can't work out which foot to put forward. Most people when practicing to stand up on a surfboard, just do it. I will say once again, if you think too much you will fall, just do it!
Your first surfboarding waves
Grab your board, and head out into the water until it's just above your waist. Hopefully you'll still be where the whitewater is rolling in and not outside the breaker line.
Let some whitewater roll by, getting a feel for the rhythm of the waves.
Let some whitewater roll by, getting a feel for the rhythm of the waves.
Step 1:
Wait for what looks like a pretty solid chunk of whitewater, and turn around, facing the shoreline. Face the shore and hold your board by the rails, at your side. As the wave comes jump/lay on your surfboard. When the whitewater reaches you, it will surge you forward.
Stay in control of the board! and let the wave take you to the shore.
Remember to jump off before you hit the sand otherwise it may break the fins.
Stay in control of the board! and let the wave take you to the shore.
Remember to jump off before you hit the sand otherwise it may break the fins.
Step 2:
The next step is to actually paddle the surfboard before the wave reaches you. Get on your board and start to paddle in. As you feel yourself surge forward, stop paddling and grab the rails of the surfboard with your hands.
Step 3:
Next! Do the same again except this time as you feel the wave pushing you along, grab the rails, or put your hands on the deck of the board and do a push-up and 'pop' your feet underneath you.
Do not kneel; go straight to your feet. Both feet need to be under you at the same time, one in front of the other, with the toes pointing perpendicular to the centerline of the board.
The secret here is to rotate your hips, if you don't you will be in a stance similar to riding snow skis, there is no way you can maintain your balance in a ski stance.
At about this point you'll really know whether you want to be a regular-foot or a goofy-foot.
Immediately afterwards, let go of the rails and stand in a stable crouch.
Do not kneel; go straight to your feet. Both feet need to be under you at the same time, one in front of the other, with the toes pointing perpendicular to the centerline of the board.
The secret here is to rotate your hips, if you don't you will be in a stance similar to riding snow skis, there is no way you can maintain your balance in a ski stance.
At about this point you'll really know whether you want to be a regular-foot or a goofy-foot.
Immediately afterwards, let go of the rails and stand in a stable crouch.
Surfing real waves
Now that you've mastered the whitewater foamies and are well-versed in the rules of surfing, you're ready to catch some real waves.
The idea is similar to catching the whitewater. Start paddling early as the wave approaches. You should be reaching full speed as the wave comes underneath you and lifts you up, this is the time to give those last few power strokes. The time to stand is when the board starts to plane on the surface of the water, as you are sliding down the face of the wave.
There is a moment where there is the feeling of weightlessness as the board starts to drop down the face, this is the time to stand up.
Standing to early, you probably will fade off the back of the wave, standing to late you run the risk of pearling/nose diving or if you do get up the momentum you had going down the face has gone and the wave will probably outrun you.
The idea is similar to catching the whitewater. Start paddling early as the wave approaches. You should be reaching full speed as the wave comes underneath you and lifts you up, this is the time to give those last few power strokes. The time to stand is when the board starts to plane on the surface of the water, as you are sliding down the face of the wave.
There is a moment where there is the feeling of weightlessness as the board starts to drop down the face, this is the time to stand up.
Standing to early, you probably will fade off the back of the wave, standing to late you run the risk of pearling/nose diving or if you do get up the momentum you had going down the face has gone and the wave will probably outrun you.
Courtesy of Seq Cabrega, surfstronger.com and saltwater-dreaming.com